Publication: Grape | 01 February 2007
Author: Cathy van Zyl
Recent days have been too warm in the Cape to look at red wines – let alone drink them, even if doctored with a few blocks of ice. So I popped two bottles of Italian white wines in the fridge. They are made from varieties we’d call ‘unusual’ in South Africa, but which are quite common within their DOCG? (Denominazione di origine Controllata? e Garantita?) zones in Italy.
Greco made its way to Italy many thousands of years ago from Greece. It was rescued from near extinction by several producers, including the Mastroberardino family, and is – for me – similar to chardonnay, or is it viognier? It seems to combine characteristics of the two – pears, apricots and almonds from the Rhône child, and the acidity?, weight? and viscosity of the Burgundian.
Tufo is the name of the area within Campania where Mastroberardino sources the grapes for the wine it calls NovaSerra. Similarly, San Gimignano is where the vernaccia for Fratelli Nistri’s wine is grown, Regginino its ‘brand’ name. The medieval town of San Gimignano in Tuscany is well-known for the many towers on its skyline, of course.
Vernaccia is found all over Italy and, in their book Grapes and Wines, Oz Clarke and Margaret Rand point out that the name has the same root as ‘vernacular’ and simply indicates a local grape. Therefore, it is quite likely that a vernaccia from the south will have no resemblance to one from the north, or east, or west.
No-one ever expects very much from Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Its aromas are rather neutral with perhaps a hint of citrus?, and its charm is its refreshing acidity. The Regginino lived up to my expectations. On the nose? it was nutty? and slightly earthy?, uncomplex; on the palate?, clean? and fresh, light-ish (12% alcohol?), and slips down easily.
By contrast, the NovaSerra demanded cerebral attention. There were hints of peaches, fresh apricots and pears in its bouquet?. The acidity was fresh and cleansing, but there was considerable fruit weight and a solid mineral? core to provide complexity?. The alcohol, 12.5%, also added to the mouth-feel, and a slight bitter almond tang just lifted the finish?. The previous vintage? of this wine achieved the top accolade – ‘Three Glasses’ – from Italy’s wine leading guide, Gambero Rosso?.
Verdict: I’m buying a few bottles of the NovaSerra, which I’ll consume with food over the next 12 months – I don’t think the wine will gain much from years of cellaring. The Regginino is competently made and a true snapshot of what I remember drinking in San Gimignano. It’s uncomplex, fresh, easy-drinking fun but – other than being Italian – it won’t offer you more than a local sauvignon blanc? or an unwooded chenin blanc in the same price category.
